Poland bet the farm on poultry. Bird flu could ruin everything.

By Bartosz Brzeziński, Lucia MacKenzie | 05/02/2025 12:07 PM EDT

A deadly wave of avian influenza, industry-led policy, and deepening ethical and biological risks are exposing flaws in the world’s most efficient meat machine.

Chickens are seen in a chicken coop.

In Poland, over 11.5 million chickens were culled in the first months of 2025 to stop bird flu from spreading. Wojtek Radwanski/AFP via Getty Images

On the flat plains of central Poland, where densely packed poultry sheds crowd the landscape, the future of Europe’s meat industry hums to the rhythm of millions of broiler chickens.

Inside, birds bred to grow at record speed shuffle under the constant glow of artificial light, each one a copy of the last. They live fast, grow faster and end their lives in industrial kill lines — destined for export to Germany, the United Kingdom and Saudi Arabia.

Chicken isn’t just dinner. Here — and across much of the world — it’s a policy choice.

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From Brussels to Brasília, policymakers have long championed poultry as a “transition meat” — a pragmatic alternative to climate-intensive beef. Chicken is lower-emissions; relatively affordable; scalable across global markets; and often promoted as a leaner, lower-fat option compared with pork or beef. In political shorthand: the least-worst option.

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